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Sunday, August 15, 2010

Tech Tips from Kristin Tara McNamara, head clinician at SLO Op Climbing

Bouldering can be pretty tough on your tendons, and with the Pine Mountain Pulldown coming up, naturally you want to take extra care that you don't blow them out prior to comp time! Here's some tips on making the best of the time you have left to get in the best shape possible and have fun no matter what level you are:

  • Follow a basic format of Eric Vorst's 4-3-2-1 training program:
    • Four weeks of endurance-only training while trying not to get pumped. This means laps on routes and hours put in.
    • 3 weeks of maximum power and strength (so you're working those hard problems the way you love and systematic training like training boards, weights, and complex training). 
    • 2 weeks of anaerobic exercise: think of this as climbing interval training - you are going to climb at a moderately high intensity with only brief rests between pumps. It should WORK YOU!
    • 1 week of total rest - let your body heal and watch the progress on the stone!
  • Don't get intimidated by the concept of a "comp." No matter what you're doing, you're climbing, and nobody but your friends will be watching you. Comps, no matter your current level, work to push you in ways you didn't imagine - you try harder, you last longer, and when it's over you have left it all behind. You'll be sore and satisfied and had one of the best climbing days of your life! 
  • Counter train! According to Dan Millman, of Way of the Peaceful Warrior, injury happens when we're not paying attention. I know you're paying attention on the rock, but are you paying attention to your body? Do you have that characteristic shoulder roll-forward? Stop that! Life is not all about pulling, and if you let those push muscles get atrophied, that's when pain's coming your way. Don't forget to do bodyweight exercises, stretch, eat well, and take care of yourself in all the other important ways.

Use these tips to show up on October 8th and have the best time possible!

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